Saturday, January 23, 2010

Pyramids + Learning

Thursday

Arabic class again.
Then Dr. Holt showed a slideshow/gave a lecture on the Middle East.
Basically he took us through Egypt, Lebanon, Israel/Palestine, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Iran, anddd maybe more? and gave us the low down of...well, lots of stuff. A lot of it was in the context of international relations...
It was fascinating. So fascinating. Especially since I don't know much of anything about politics, let alone global politics.

My thoughts after the lecture:
The world of international relations is a game. One big, extremely complex, game. And every little (or big) decision made...every action or lack of action...has a million strings attached. There seems to be a reason for everything.

After classes I went downtown with a few of the guys and explored/looked for a notebook/shoes. Got to see some beautiful European style buildings and interesting ppl.



Friday

The weekend! (Our weekend is Friday and Saturday)
Oh real quick...schedule:
Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday= Class days.
Tuesdays= Service project days.
Friday, Saturday= Weekend.

Church/Mosque services are on Fridays. Some church services on Sunday nights, but mostly Friday.

So Friday morning visited the Pyramids! Got on a camel!
Took a long nap, and then we met with 3 Muslim, Egyptian girls for dinner/conversation.

I can't even begin to relay all that we discussed...We talked about religion and society, culture and tradition, gender, modesty, academics, professions, marriage, social class...
They were all 3 middle to upper-middle class. All Muslim. Two single (around 21). One married (30ish). The two younger girls were veiled, and the married woman was not (although she plans on being veiled at some point soon).

So a few things to share:
-Veiling... a personal decision between you and God. Once you are veiled, you must remain veiled. If veiled, you can only take your veil off around certain ppl (Immediate family, Muslim women, Grandfather, Uncle, husband) You can't unveil in front of Christian women, or any other males, including cousins.

-A lot of practices/traditions that we in the west associate with Islam, are in fact cultural/societal practices/traditions...NOT ISLAMIC ones, although some Muslims will claim that they are. For example, the practice of female circumcision...this is not an Islamic tradition, this is typically an African tradition that African Muslims may claim for Islam...and in fact some African Christians claim this for Christianity as well.

-Husbands have almost complete control over wives (although wives can be persuasive, and also some males are more domineering than others)...A husband can put many limitations on his wife. For example, he can tell his wife she is not allowed to talk to her male colleagues...if she argues, then he can tell her he doesn't want her to work at all...she is expected to comply. (*Note* this is a cultural thing, not Islamic).

-Education here is a MAJOR problem...teachers are paid virtually nothing so there is no incentive to do a good job...even the most expensive BEST schools in Cairo are about equivalent to an average public school in the U.S.

-**DAD READ THIS**
So, Egypt is a male-dominated society. Women definitely work, and work in almost all fields, but there are some fields that don't have very many women, or women aren't trusted in. For example: MEDICINE.
I was asking questions about females and medical school and the married woman (who I might add is a professor at AUC and has studied and taught in the U.S., is extremely extremely intelligent, and a HUGE FEMINIST) shared that even she does not feel comfortable going to see a female Gynecologist. The other girls shared that they wouldn't trust a female as much as a man because females act more from the heart, whereas men act more from the mind. I found this to be very interesting because in the U.S. there seems to be a shift within Gynecology and Obstetrics...many girls/women now seem to prefer and feel more comfortable with a female doctor than a male doctor.



Tonight we meet our Egyptian "Friends".
I think we each get paired up with an Egyptian our age to hang out with and get to know...This is a way to make friends with locals and also get a chance to ask ppl our age questions about their day-to-day life...
I'm looking forward to being able to ask Lots aNd LOTS of questions =)










Ah Salaam.

Wednesday, January 20, 2010

And Class Begins...

MONDAY
We visited Garbage City (Moqattam) on Monday.
What a strange, strange place.
We have nothing like it in the United States.
Garbage City is a slum community on the edge of Cairo where the economy revolves around garbage. Donkey carts bring Cairo’s trash to the community, and then the families sort the garbage to retrieve recyclables and useful scraps. Many of the Coptic Christians living here may also raise pigs (using the garbage to feed them), and sell the meat for income. This is how the families of Garbage City make their living.
Unfortunately I forgot my camera in my flat, so I was unable to take pictures, but it was both fascinating and saddening to see a community literally covered in garbage.

The stench while walking through the streets is like none other. The people living there are filthy (just imagine what you would look like after sorting through garbage all day long). The buildings are skeletal structures.
I glanced in some of the open doorways we passed and saw heaps of trash with men, women, and children sorting through it with their bare hands.
As we weaved in and out of people and cars, massive garbage bags were lowered and raised by ropes and pullies in the windows above.

Garbage city is a strange sight, but it is a community like any other community, with families, homes, streets, stores, schools, and churches.

Moving on…
We visited an orphanage run by Sisters of Charity, and an organization which provides looms for women within garbage city to make rugs, purses, wallets, etc. out of recycled materials. They also make paper products, teach literacy, and much more… It’s a neat organization but I don’t remember the name of it. If you’re interested ask and I’ll find out.

FASHION PEOPLE…A cool fact: Marc Jacobs bought many items from them and will be selling them in the U.S… I’m curious though the price they bought them for in comparison to how much they will be selling them for. Hmmm.

Also visited some churches in Garbage city…The churches were caves. Literally CAVES. Gigantic. I’m so mad I didn’t have my camera! I was awe-struck.



TUESDAY

First day of service projects…I’m doing the prison ministry which I mentioned earlier in the blog. It was a holiday though, so instead I went to the orphanage again and spent 4 hours surrounded by dirty, greasy haired, runny-nosed, toddlers. I describe them this way, because this was their appearance. They weren’t adorable. They were sickly looking.
But they were/are beautiful little human beings, each with his/her own unique personality. We spent 4 hours holding them, playing with them, feeding them. It was exhausting but wonderful. I don’t know how the sisters who run the orphanage survive with so many kids and so little workers. (The orphanage has toddlers, babies, mentally/physically handicapped, and also elderly). Not only is the orphanage understaffed, but they have also taken a vow of poverty…meaning they survive on little. Also crazy: they wash all clothing by hand…imagine for a moment the amount of laundry needed to be done every day without any machines!

That night Justine and I met up with Geehan (the Yemen woman we met at the mosque). Such a sweetheart! She’s 31 and works for the ministry of oil, and is on scholarship studying Business Administration. Her father is the Sheikh of Sana’a (the capital of Yemen). It was so much fun, and we got to ask her all kinds of random questions about Islam and her life in Yemen and in Egypt.

Random bits of conversation:
-In Yemen, many muslim women work
-Just as we visited a mosque service simply to observe and learn, she has visited church services for the same reason (one of which was a catholic mass)
-She is Sunni
-Educated Muslims in Yemen don’t have arranged marriages…typically it’s the less educated (which most ppl I think are aware of)




WEDNESDAY

First day of Arabic class. Yay!
I sounded like a fool, but so fun!

Also, got our handouts for the courses and assignments. Dr. Holt (director of our program) went through and talked about what the learning will be like this semester and how our beliefs will be challenged over the next few months…I can’t even begin to describe the thoughts and emotions I was experiencing…it was overwhelming, but in such a good way. Basically my world will be shattered this semester.

Ah Salaam.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Sunday

Went to do Visa stuff at the Mogamma… then split into groups of 4 for our “metro experience.” Before going on the metro, our group walked around near the AUC library…we got invited into an Egyptian’s perfume shop. He sat us down, offered us tea, and put about 5 different perfumes on our hands to smell. One of the guys in our group bought some perfume, but when the rest of us said we didn’t have enough money to buy any he tried for about 5 minutes to persuade us otherwise. It made for an awkward situation; I thought at one point he was going to start crying.

After walking about for a bit, we went to the AUC (American University in Cairo) bookstore where we had to buy a novel written by an Arab author (we need it for one of our classes). I found A LOT of interesting books in there, and ended up skimming through books for an hour and a half.

Then we hopped on the metro (it’s only 1LE which is about 25 cents) and picked a random stop to get off on and explore. The metro has 2 center cars which are reserved for women only (muslim culture for ya), so Holly, the other girl in my group, and I rode in one of those cars. Basically all the women were veiled and we got quite a few stares. We explored some of the streets at the stop we got off on, and bought some delicious pastries and desserts before heading back.

Observations:
The people in Cairo are extremely friendly and helpful (but I’ve noticed that just about every country I’ve visited outside of the U.S. has been this way). Apparently Americans don’t understand hospitality.

Young men and boys love to yell out to foreign females. “Welcome to Egypt!” “You are beautiful!” “Hello!” It’s not unusual for little boys to follow us as we walk by.

I find that I love the contrast of an Egyptian woman wearing modern clothes with the traditional practice of wearing a veil. When I say “modern” though, I mean fashionable/tight fitting, but not revealing. I have not seen one woman wearing shorts, a skirt above the ankles, short sleeves, or a tank top. At least not yet I haven’t.

From a fashion stand-point, I find that I really like the veil. I think it’s quite beautiful and find myself often wanting to wear my scarf like the other women.

Saturday

Saturday

A lot of the day was spent talking and filling out paperwork…we signed up for our cultural experiences (I picked cooking as my first choice and belly dancing as my second) and our service projects. Some of the service projects= prison ministry, sisters of charity orphanage, teaching esl, writing grants, etc… Not sure which one I will get but my first choice was the prison ministry. Basically it consists of visiting the prison and speaking one-on-one with a male, English-speaking inmate. Originally my first choice was the orphanage, but I liked the idea of one-on-one conversation.

Besides all the talking/paperwork, we did the scavenger hunt through Agouza (our neighborhood within Cairo). It was a good way to get a little more familiar with the neighborhood and explore a bit of the area. We experienced our first taxi ride in Cairo, and had some great Egyptian fast food. Lunch for about 25 cents!

Dinner was spent on a boat (Felucca) on the Nile. The boat had lights strung up all around and music playing. It reminded me of the party buses down in Huatulco (Family you know what I’m referring to), except taken down a notch.

Then we went and smoked Shisha (the only time we are allowed to while we are here). Although it’s disappointing that we can’t smoke at all while here, I understand the program’s reasoning and am thankful they at least gave us one opportunity to experience this aspect of the culture. And yes OF COURSE I am buying a Hookah while I’m here, or at least one from Turkey when we go.

After Shisha, we walked around through the shops in a giant market. It was beautiful at night with all the shiny objects (hookahs, lamps, vases, etc) reflecting the lights of the side streets. I’ll definitely be going back there for gifts.




Ah Salaam.

This post was written Friday despite the date

Friday

Well it's my third day in Egypt (second full day) and I'm in love.
But of course I would be.

First thing I would like to share:
Egypt is not as dangerous as everyone assumes.
Quite the contrary. Cairo is a very safe city.
So no need to worry!

Anyway, since today is only the second full day here we haven't done too much yet. We've had a lot of informative talks about the city, the culture, the covenant we had to sign, health, etc... Yesterday we drove around the city to get a general idea of the area. We drove near the Pyramids (breathtaking) and went to a market. The market was great- cow heads, feet, and tongues...pita bread EVERYWHERE, every type of fresh produce, scarves galore!

As far as food goes...I'm in heaven. Hummus, pita, falafels, tahini. Falafels for BREAKFAST might I add.

All the females bought scarves at the market for our visit to the mosque today.
The mosque service was very interesting and I’m so glad we were able to experience it.

A little about it: The women and men were separated- men were on a carpet set up near the street, and the women were in an upstairs room watching on a television screen. We had to take off our shoes before entering...our hair had to be completely covered with our scarves, skirts to the ground, long sleeves. We got there early and watched as individuals came in. They would walk to one of the lines on the floor, face Mecca, close their eyes, and do some sort of individual prayer to Allah either standing or sitting…The service consisted of individual prayer time, a sermon (much like we would experience in our churches), and then the prayer ritual done in unison. This prayer ritual basically consisted of all the women standing in lines praying out loud and bowing halfway and also bowing with their knees and faces on the ground.

After the service, one of the females sitting near us mistook Justine (one of my flatmates) and I for Arabs (YESSSSSS so great). We struck up a conversation and it turns out that she's from Yemen and is studying in Cairo for her Masters in Business and Management (I think). She gave us her phone number and email address so that we can hang out, but unfortunately she leaves on holiday for Yemen after this week and will be there for the next month. Hopefully we will get a chance to meet up with her before she leaves and establish more of a friendship so we can reconnect when she returns.

The mosque service was incredibly interesting to observe.
We had a long discussion afterward as a group, and one thing that was touched on was the contrast in dress between mosque services and church services in America. In the States, everyone puts on their "Sunday best" for church. We dress up to impress each other. Here, however, Muslims dress very plain and very very conservative at the mosque because the focus is solely on God. People are not there to impress one another or socialize, they are there only to pray and worship God.

Anyway, I'm done for now...
Tomorrow we are doing a scavenger hunt through the city to familiarize ourselves with the area. And we start classes next Wednesday.

Ah Salaam.